New thoughts

I had awesome time up in Tauranga, Kawerau and Auckland over Christmas time.

I caught up with friends in Tauranga and then drove down to Kawerau to visit Mata brewery, where I will be contract brewing at next year.

In Auckland I went to Galbraith brew pub as it is a part of my routine when I visit Auckland.

It was pretty cool to see few new beer bars around Auckland as well.

Craft beer scene is getting bigger, but not only in Wellington and all over in New Zealand.
I hope this will encourage more people to start home brewing.




Recently, I received the prize from NHC.

This is 30kg sack of Pilsner Malt.

My gold medal winning wheat ale was chosen as runner up prize in Hybrid Beer section.

30kg malt is actually a lot. What shall I brew? I guess brew wheat beer?
However I was not keen for buying more malt as I got quite much now.

I came up with an idea while I was at Mata brewery thinking how I can brew good beer cheaper. Yes. It sounds like cheating, but imagine you can brew a great pale ale by spending $10 less for your 20L batch. Wouldn't that be great?
The counter argument for brewing good pale ale with pilsner malt is that, the malt won't give good body to the beer. It is true, but what if we can avoid this issue with pilsner malt?
When homebrewers want to achieve more flavour and body in their beer, they often raise the mash temperture to around 69℃ and put in more caramel malt.
I wanted to achieve this by having 70℃ mash temp and using only pilsner malt with out caramel malt.

When I was brewing Imperial Stout last time I got advice from few brewers saying that I had too much caramel malt in the grain recipe. Their point was that if you boil the beer for 90 minutes there will be enough caramelisation in the wort instead of using that much caramel malt.

Using this idea I thought I can brew good pale ale with pilsner malt only, high mash temperture and long boil. (could be even more than 90min)

I will come back to this after I brewed this beer.

NZ National Homebrew Competition 2011 RESULT

NHC result

I was so stoked on Saturday night having my result in my hand.

My beer did very well in the competition.

I got 4 golds, 5 silvers and 9 bronzes.

The champion brewer won 4 golds and 2 bronzes, and I didn't become champion brewer in the competition because of his gold winning beers were better than my gold winning beers. I had a chance to become a champion brewer and get 30L stainless conical fermenter. Sucks.

Anyway, the following is the detail.

American Wheat Ale - Gold

Black IPA 2nd - Gold

Sweet Stout - Gold

Pumpkin Amber Ale - Gold

Lagunitas IPA clone 2nd - Silver

Vanilla Scotch Ale - Silver

Motueka Golden Ale - Silver

Snake Dog IPA clone - Silver

Black Saison - Silver

NZ IPA - Bronze

Black IPA 1st - Bronze

NZ IIPA - Bronze

Schvale - Bronze

Hefeweissen - Bronze

Lagunitas IPA clone 1st - Bronze

Sauvin Oatmeal Stout - Bronze

American Brown Ale - Bronze

Rye Red Ale - Bronze

Hoppy Wit - No Medal

Smoked Porter - No Medal

Dunkel Wit - No Medal

ESB - No Medal

Strawberry Wheat - No Medal

Brown Ale - No Medal


I have been asked to send another bottle of Pumpkin Amber Ale and Sweet Stout for the NHC organiser to be judged again to choose the best beer. I'm guessing that the champion brewer, Zane Smith who started 6 months ago had better Spiced beer and Sweet Stout.


Well, result is the result. I'm starting my contract brew business next year. Now I know which beer I can brew commercially. I'm going to rebrew the gold winning beer first and Sauvin Oatmeal Stout, which I thought was the best beer I entered, but entered to wrong category...


Wheat Ale, Sweet Stout, Pumpkin Amber Ale, Black IPA....
Which one should I brew first?

NZ National Homebrew Competition 2011

Finally, the time of the year.

National Homebrew Competition 2011.

By the way, I have been busy with my work even more after the rugby games started... (with watching them as well)


Anyway.
I remember getting bronze for my IPA for first time and that was actually my first homebrew ever. (what a luck)
I brewed at my friends' place who are now selling their beer as ParrotDog. They released their first beer this year that is known as Bitter Bitch IPA. (selling at my work and many other beer pubs in Wellington)

This year, I am entering 24 different beers. (A beer case!)
Yes, indeed. Carpet Bomb.


I had beer tasting of my homebrew with my friend and workmate on Sunday.

It was a good night. They liked my beers and I was surprised with some of them how my beer matured well.

Rye IPA, Brown Ale, ESB, Sauvin Oatmeal Stout, 

American Wheat, Hoppy Wit, Motueka Golden

from the top.

We didn't taste all the 24 beers, but some of them. I kept 2, 3 bottles of each brews for entering competition and tasting before the competition. 

Hoppy Wit, if you can remember, was a cool beer. My E.S.B tasted pretty good too. 

I was happy about my Sauvin Oatmeal Stout the most. It lost that grassy character and now more, smooth, chocolaty, passion fruity -  like chocolate smoothie with some fruits on the rim. 

I can not wait to get the result back from NHC. 

The entering time is during October and the judges will taste the beer in early November.

Before that I have Pacific Beer Expo coming up and will be busy for that.

I hope I can brew some beer more this month though.

...after the tasting

Saison!

So, I finally brewed Saison.

This year's craft beer trend in New Zealand has been Saison. (and also over in U.S.A)

I tried many Saison style beers this year and some of they were good and some of were not.


I had black Saison during Beervana. Oh yeah, it was a great beer festival and I had many great beers. I can't wait for the next one in 2012.

This time I brewed black Saison and black IPA as I said I will do in the past post.

I modified the black IPA recipe a lot. I added more caramel malt.
I also got Wyeast Laboratories. French Saison 3711 for my black Saison.

This is how I syphoned the beer.

This way I get to taste the difference between the different yeasts and get 2 beers out of 1 brew!

1 stone 2 birds.

Black Saison finished its fermentation last night, after 1.5 weeks. It took a lot of time! 

Here's the recipe for 30L batch size.

7.40kg Pale Malt (Maris Otter) 

0.95kg Caramel Crystal Medium (150EBC)

0.40kg Carafa II (800EBC)

0.25kg Roasted Barley (600EBC)

40g Pacific Gem [15.00%] - Boil 90.0 min 

30g NZ Cascade [8.00%] - Boil 20.0 min

30g NZ Cascade [8.00%] - Boil 10.0 min

10g Riwaka [5.25%] - Boil 5.0 min

100g NZ Cascade [8.00%] - Dry Hop 7 days.

And syphone into 2 different fermenters at the SAME TIME. 

Beer for chocolate lovers

Chocolate beer has been pretty popular recently.

I tried Renaissance Craftsman Chocolate Oatmeal Stout many times and it is an awesome beer.

It has full-on chocolate flavour and a hint of vanilla and coffee. I know many girls fell in love with the beer. (and guys)

Why can't I attract some of those girls?

So, I brewed chocolate beer with my friend, Dylan.

The base beer I picked was Imperial Porter.

Imagine the rich roasty, coffee, caramel flavour with the chocolate you love. It will be great.

Renaissance Brewery and many other people use the cacao nibs so I followed the trend.

I got the cacao nibs from Madagascar. The shop owner was telling me that Madagascan one would the best quality cacao I can get in Wellington. (The shop imports wine and other food stuff from France and Italy. Nice shop.)

I will add the most of these in the secondary, but to get the flavour in the beer I threw 100gram of cacao nibs in the boil (10 minutes).

I pitched the 3rd generation US-05 yeast and fermenting nicely at the moment.

By the way, this "3rd generation yeast", brewed 200IBU IIPA 9.5%, gone to my friend's brew and came back to mine. It was bit of fun, passing the yeast around. 

Here's the recipe for the brew.

27L Batch

7.50kg Pale Malt (Maris Otter)

1.36kg Munich Malt

1.54kg Crystal Malt (250EBC)

0.61kg Crystal Malt (120EBC)

0.61kg Crystal Malt (60EBC)

0.31kg Chocolate Malt

0.15kg Black Malt

14 g Nelson Sauvin [12.00 %] - Boil 90.0 min Hop 

14 g Nelson Sauvin [12.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 

14 g Southern Cross [13.00 %] - Boil 30.0 min Hop 

14 g Southern Cross [13.00 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 

14 g Nelson Sauvin [12.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 

100g Cacao Nib - Boil 10min

200g Madagascan Cacao Nib - secondary (dry hop....   I mean dry cacao)

Whats brown and sticky? The followup

After 2 weeks sitting on untoasted american oak chips and sitting in the bottle for another two, the results are in for my oaked brown ale; too much oak was added. Rather than a soft, mellow oakiness that I was looking for, I got harsh, gnawing on wood. Its like a living tree in the beer i.e green. At least those were my thoughts. I took this beer along to the homebrew meetup and got some good feedback. Some people digged the oak flavour while others agreed with me that it was too much. While other people noted vanilla and raisin on the nose and a good oak flavour. People suggested leave it for a 2 months or reduce the oak or maybe get toasted oak next time.

Despite being far from what I wanted, its not terrible and perhaps I was being a little hard on myself. Can't expect to get it right first attempt. I'll definitely take on peoples thoughts and maybe reduce the oak for next time. I will also play around with different toasts of oak and differnet woods.

Chances are that it will mellow out over time and . At least I hope it will. Until then I'll drink the other beers I have.

Coconut Rough Stout

I've been enjoying adding extra ingredients to my homebrew.

I have used, coffee, strawberry, cacao nib, vanilla, cinnamon and crisps. (!?)

I brewed a stout with one of my favourite Misc ingredient, coconut.

I'm not actually the first one to try coconut in the beer. There are some commercial example out there.
Maui Brewing Coconut Porter from Hawaii is a popular one and 2009 NZ national homebrew competirion (NHC) winning beer was coconut porter, too.

I tried the NHC 09' winning homebrew - brewed commercially at Hallertau in Auckland and fell in love with the beer for couple weeks. (Yes, only few weeks. I like mine better now)

My opinion was that the beer was too sweet and I applied to dry stout for the first time last year. It worked quite well. I modified the recipe and brewed again couple months ago and gave some of them to my friends.

Coconut Rough Stout tasting 1


Coconut Rough Stout tasting 2



The beer was getting some good compliments, but Greig picked up "green apple" in the beer, which is a fault and it is due to the stressed yeast. I remember that I pitched the dry yeast straight into the fermenter without hydrating them nor making the starter. Greig said that using the dry yeast without hydrating them kills the half of the yeast I pitch.

The failure of the brew apart from the one Greig picked is that the beer was 'wet' and 'sweet'. I was supposed to make it dry, but the beer came out as coconut caramel cream beer. Right. It is not what I aimed and it is far way from what I brewed last year. The reason I can think of is that I left the coconut in the fermenter too long.
I was supposed to bottle after a week I threw the toasted coconut in, but I was way too busy with my work and other stuff. (excuse? yes it is.)

Here is the recipe for the beer (20L batch)





 3.00 kg Pale Malt, Maris Otter  
 1.00 kg Barley, Flaked 
 0.45 kg Black Barley 
 0.25 kg Oats, Flaked 


 20.00 g Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min
 20.00 g Target [11.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min 


 50.00 g cacao nibs (Boil 10.0 mins) Flavor 7 - 
200.00g dry coconut meat (Boil 10.0min)


200.00g dry coconut meat (dry hop 7 days)


Add oat to the recipe this time to give the some texture, but I think it wasn't a good idea
Probably roasted barley could be added to gain the 'dry' impression when its consumed.
I should have kept the grain recipe more simple.

Recipe modification and going back to least favorite beer

I have been taking off from brewing in July and concentration on drinking my own homebrews.




I had too many beers going on back then ...

It was hard for me to look after all 8 beers at the same time and I think I decreased the quality of the beer I brewed meantime as I couldn't be paying enough attention to each beer.


MASS PRODUCTION = LOWER QUALITY


It's kind of easy theory from economic course at university (ECON 101)




What I did was to tidy up my brewery  to

looks better now....




It's not only tidying up my brewery, I was up to in last few weeks.


I tried my Imperial Black IPA.


The conclusions to improve the IBIPA is:
- Imperial Black IPA isn't dark enough and needs more roasty flavour as well body. So, adding Black Barley or Roasted Barley is necessary.


This is the modified recipe

6.50 kg Pale Malt

0.60 kg Crystal Malt 40L

0.60 kg Crystal Malt 80L

0.20 kg Chocolate Malt

0.50 kg Roasted Barley

40 gram Pacific Gem  90min

10 gram Nelson Sauvin  60min

10 gram Nelson Sauvin  45min

10 gram Nelson Sauvin  30min

30 gram NZ Cascade  10min

30 gram NZ Cascade  5min

50 gram NZ Cascade  1min

Increased the amount of dark malt and also more 1minute hop addition. I'm hoping the chocolate malt will help the roast flavour and the huge hop flavour get along with its sweet toffy malt character.

I also tried American Wheat Ale and Hoppy Wit.

I confess that Hoppy Wit was my least favourite beer I brewed this year so far. However, I tried from the  bottle today with a friend. He told me that his favourite was Hoppy Wit over American Wheat Ale saying that Wheat Ale was hoppy and good beer, but not interesting compare to Hoppy Wit. 

Actually Hoppy Wit was brewed because of accident that my 8 months old Hef yeast didn't start up after I pitched the yeast. Yeah, I was planning to brew Hopfen Weiss. 

As it's been popular to brew the beer with Belgian/French beer yeast, Saison yeast. 

There's Saison Sauvin from 8 Wired Brewing, which is IPA brewed with Saison yeast. The beer has Belgian yeast character and slightly sour.

My friend tasted similar sourness in my Hoppy Wit and suggested me that it may be possible to brew Wit IPA as well as Saison IPA. I agreed with his idea, but I have to change the hops around.

I thought it is very cool to go back to some beers you wouldn't pay attention to or wouldn't like (at least me) and seek out a new possibility. 

I'd say Imperial Black IPA and Hoppy Wit will be my next brews I must do. 

Whats brown and sticky.....?

.....my brown ale at the moment. That is to say I added oak chips to it.

Can't remember what commercial beer I had that had been aged on wood that made me go "man I wouldn't mind doing that myself" but I became fairly convinced that I would love it. I'm gonna say Firestone Walker DBA.

Rather than commit an entire batch to it though I split it in half. Half will be dry hopped with centennial, the other half untoasted american oak. Here is how I did it:

- I decided on 5gms of oak chips per litre of beer. Will this make it too oaky? Not oaky enough? I don't know. The packet (product was made with spirit making in mind) said 1 to 2gms per litre for a strong flavour. Reading over forums I came across people saying as much as 10gms per litre. I went with the medium and chose 5gms.

- I took the oak chips and boiled them in water for 10mins. Some forums said sanitising not necessary, others said boil them. So I boiled them.

- Once boiling had finished I put them in a stocking courtesy of my girlfriend (thanks Mel!) and also a decanter stopper for weight (couldn't find any marbles at home so Mum gave me a crystal decanter stopper/lid. um... okay. thanks mum). Reason for the weight was so the wood didn't just float on top and ultimately not give much flavour.

- Put the oak stocking in the secondary fermenter and added the beer on top. Will leave it on the oak chips for 2 weeks then bottle.

Will it be wonderfully oaky like I hope it would or too subtle to taste or so oaky its like gnawing on a log of wood? Time will tell.

Smoke Them if you've got 'Em

Intrigued by the history of London Porter - particularly brown malt (a traditional wood smoked malt) being a significant part of the grain bill, and after tasting our efforts having brewed a great session Porter, we decided to up the smoke!

Inspired by an Alasakan Smoked Porter http://www.alaskanbeer.com/smoked-porter.html and in the American tradition of making everything big, we upped the smoke, and everything else...

For a 40 litre batch...

Grist
7kg Golden Promise
2.5kg Rauch Malt (German Smoked Malt)
.8kg Munich Malt
.8kg Pale Crystal
.8kg Caramalt
.6kg Chocolate Malt
.4kg Black Patent Malt

Hops
75g EKG 60mins
35g Willamette 30mins
40g Willamette 15mins
25g EKG 0mins
25g Willamette 0mins

Single infusion Mash @ 67 degrees C

Pitched Wyeast 1272 @ 18 degrees C, 3 weeks Primary, no Secondary

Key Stats....

90 min boil
1.067 SG @ 70% efficiency
1.014 FG
7% ABV
39.4 SRM
35.6 IBU

Early tastings indicate serious Awesomeness and Smoke...

Recipe making for Imperial Black Saison

I posted the recipe for Imperial Black IPA previously and I was thinking what will happen if I brewed the same beer, but with a different yeast.

In the past I have done American Wheat Ale and Hoppy Wit from the same wort.

They turned out like this -

American Wheat Ale: huge hop aroma (Simcoe!), peach, clean bitterness and pine fruits taste and thin body, and the flavour doesn't last long. very easy drinking hoppy wheat ale

Hoppy Wit: smells yeasty and Simcoe hop is not getting along with Belgian Wit yeast character. Tastes soapy. not the best beer it could be. I think I should've done Hoppen Weiss using Hefeweissen yeast.

I learned that there is some case that the yeast and hop don't get along together.

However, I'm thinking to brew another crazy stuff.


Imperial Black Saison by pitching Saison yeast into the Imperial Black IPA wort.


For 20L batch

6.50 kg Pale Malt

1.00 kg Munich Malt

0.25 kg Crystal Malt 30L

0.60 kg Crystal Malt 60L

0.25 kg Black Barley

40 gram Pacific Gem  90min

10 gram Nelson Sauvin  60min

10 gram Nelson Sauvin  45min

10 gram Nelson Sauvin  30min

30 gram NZ Cascade  10min

30 gram NZ Cascade  5min

10 gram NZ Cascade  1min

100 gram NZ Cascade Dry Hop for 7days

And Saison yeast

Well. I didn't create a new recipe.

"JUST PITCH DIFFERENT"

From my experience of drinking Saison, Saison make the beer dry and shows coriander or other spices on nose.

The mistake I have done for brewing Hoppy Wit may be "wrong hop used" "dry hopping"

However, Saison tends to have less yeastyness compare to other Belgian yeasts and I'm guessing it won't be a big problem to dry hop it. 

It could be cool to check this forum from Homebrew.com

Imperial Black IPA

Yeahp. Imperial, it is.

I bottled Imperial Black IPA.

Black IPA has been quite popular and I brewed, but something more. (more of this stuff brewed commercially in America though. i.e Southerntier Iniquity and Unita Dubhe Imperial Black IPA )

It wasn't done yet, but from what I tasted before bottling, the beer will be pretty good.

I can't forget to mention that the idea was from my friend Alec.

He was one of my friend who liked my homebrewed IPA and STARTED to brew the beer himself.

Seems like I'm doing my job to make the taxation department get less money....   inspiring and increasing the homebrewing population. 

Alec made the label for our collaborative brew and here is the front part of it.

(But not for sale as it's illegal.)

And also this is the recipe we brewed

6.50 kg Pale Malt

1.00 kg Munich Malt

0.25 kg Crystal Malt 30L

0.60 kg Crystal Malt 60L

0.25 kg Black Barley

40 gram Pacific Gem  90min

10 gram Nelson Sauvin  60min

10 gram Nelson Sauvin  45min

10 gram Nelson Sauvin  30min

30 gram NZ Cascade  10min

30 gram NZ Cascade  5min

10 gram NZ Cascade  1min

100 gram NZ Cascade Dry Hop for 7days

Taking the day off to brew

I've been struggling to find the time to get round to brewing as of late so did the logical thing and took a day off work to brew. And what I will be brewing is Tasty McDole's "Janets Brown". Recipe below adjusted to what I had available:


Batch Size (Gal): 6.00 Wort Size (Gal): 6.00
Total Grain (Lbs): 16.00
Anticipated OG: 1.066 Plato: 16.20
Anticipated SRM: 19.3
Anticipated IBU: 63.2
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70 %
Wort Boil Time: 90 Minutes

Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential SRM
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
75.0 12.00 lbs. Pale Malt(2-row) America 1.036 2
7.8 1.25 lbs. Cara-Pils Dextrine Malt 1.033 2
7.8 1.25 lbs. Crystal 40L America 1.034 40
6.3 1.00 lbs. Wheat Malt America 1.038 2
3.1 0.50 lbs. Chocolate Malt America 1.029 350

Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.00 oz. Northern Brewer Pellet 6.50 19.0 Mash H
1.25 oz. Northern Brewer Pellet 6.50 30.8 60 min.
1.00 oz. Northern Brewer Pellet 6.50 6.6 15 min.
1.50 oz. Cascade Pellet 6.00 6.8 10 min.
1.50 oz. Cascade Pellet 6.00 0.0 0 min.
2.00 oz. Centennial Pellet 9.00 0.0 Dry Hop

Yeast
-----
Fermentis US-05

Mash Schedule
-------------
Mashed in at 154*F or 68*C if you will.

As I am a BIAB brewer I've made some slight adjustments i.e took into account no sparging.

This is my first attempt on the electric water urn brew kettle my friends and I chipped in to buy and brew day is off to a bad start. With a beer this big you need a lot of grains and alot of water. This is probably one of the biggest problems with BIAB brewing. Let me explain.
The electric kettle I use is 40L and I want 23L in the fermenter. For this happen I need calculate how much water I need. So....
If i want 23L I need to add 23L to the kettle
The malt bill for is about 7.5kg. I assume for every kg of grain, I lose 1L of water + 7.5L
On the this kettle I can assume 2L lost to evaporation per hour. This is a 90min boil. +3L
So to start I need 23L + 7.5L + 3L which gives me 33.5L of water needed. Plenty of room in a 40L kettle for that.
Except i haven't eally taken into account the displacement of the 7.5kg og grains. Now 40L isn't quite big enough and I got a bit of an overflow.

Balls.

Still, rather be doing this than working.

Vanilla scotchale

Last night, I tasted the Scotch ale I brewed for my friend's birthday.

The beer had the final gravity of 1.020, and the original gravity was 1.070, which was 0.003 lower than the target gravity.

2 weeks after I pitched the yeast I put 2 pods of vanilla beans, and 1 cinnamon stick in the carboy. (yeah, actual vanilla beans and cinnamon stick)

The beer had a good colour, not very carbonated, big, but subtle vanilla aroma and tiny hint of cinnamon.

It was tasting good, but the body was kind of thin even though it finished at 1.020 (maybe I should have aimed higher for FG(Final Gravity) or just added more grain?) or the sweetness in the beer ganged up with vanilla and made me think it had thinner body in the beer. 

However, the peat flavour in this beer was definitely making the other think it was an interesting beer.

Here is the recipe for "Cole's Vanilla Scotch Ale"

5.50 kg Pale Malt

1.00 kg Wheat Malt

0.23 kg Crystal Malt 40L

0.23 kg Crystal Malt 60L

0.23 kg Crystal Malt 80L

0.23 kg Munich Malt

0.10 kg Chocolate Malt

0.10 kg Peat Smoked Malt

0.10 kg Mild Smoked Malt

0.10 kg Roasted Barley

30gram Fuggles hop 60min

30gram Fuggles hop 30min

30gram East Kent Goldings hop 10min

Extra ingredients:

2 Vanilla Pods

1 Cinnamon Stick

and Happy Birthday Cole!

Clarity

Left : hoppy wit

Right : hoppy wheat ale

I brewed hoppy wit and hoppy wheat ale last month using, 10kg grain 50% wheat malt 50% pilsner malt. I halved the batch into two and brewed twice that day.

After each brew I syphoned into 2 different fermenters to have exactly the same wort in them from 2 separate brews. As I pitched different yeast (saf-dry wit and us-05) they started fermenting, but what made me surprised was that, the each colour of the wort I could see from outside of the fermenting bucket were different. 

Usually colour difference of the beers are from how much/what kind of roasted malt you put into your brew and never heard that the yeast affect the colour.

Guess it was because the bucket wasn't clear container, I thought it was the colour difference I had in my mind. Each beer started from the same wort, hence the colour of the beers are the same and the difference in these beer was the clarity level. 

The hoppy wit in the fermenter looked darker in the fermenter as it didn't let the light go through as much as the another hoppy wheat ale, because ale yeast make the beer clearer than wit or hef yeast.

by the way this is the recipe for these wheat beer.

Amt	Name
2.5 kg	Pilsner Malt
2.5 kg	Wheat Malt
10.00 g	Centennial [10.00 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days
15.00 g	Simcoe [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days
20.00 g	Motueka [7.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min
15.00 g	Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 45.0 min
10.00 g	Motueka [7.00 %] - Boil 30.0 min
10.00 g	Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min
10.00 g	Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 5.0 min
10.00 g	Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 1.0 min

Forgetting to measure the final gravity

Getting the statistic about the beer that you brewed is important for the serious homebrewing, but it may be forgotten by some destruction sometimes.

I bottled my hoppy wheat ale and hoppy wit today.

I forgot to measure the final gravity, but it was too late as I already put the priming sugar into the beer in the bottling bucket.

However, I needed to find the gravity of the beer after fermentation to find out the ABV.

Here is the answer I came up with by going back to the high school chemistry experiment.

The difference of the boiling point between different types of fluid.

Boiling point of Ethanol is 78℃, hence the Ethanol contained beverage, Beer has lower boiling point than the pure water.

Here is the graph I referred to find out the ratio of the ethanol in the beer after it boiled at 95℃.

This is really helpful, but not as accurate as using the gravity before and after fermentation.